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TONY

WOOD

ITALIAN

WINE

Tony Wood

Anteprima Vini Della Costa Toscana 2023


The weekend of 11th/12th March was spent in Lucca, Tuscany, as a guest of Anteprima Vini Costa Toscana 2023.


Some 70 wineries attended this event to present their latest releases within the historic grounds and imposing building known as Real Collegio, formerly an old monastery, then a school with 500 years of history on its shoulders.



The birth of the Associazione Grandi Cru della Costa Toscana occurred in 2003 when a dozen Tuscan wine producers with a collective viewpoint decided to promote with one voice, the diverse coastal wines of Massa, Lucca, Pisa, Livorno and Grosseto.

The one common denominator is the Tyrrhenian Sea, with its cool, salt laden wind, which brings a unique Mirco climate that has shaped and help define the character of the wines produced under its influence.


Today, the association has grown and now boasts some 70 members. One of the founder members was Tenuta San Guido noted producer Sassicaia, Italy’s first ‘Super Tuscan’.


The President of the association is Duccio Corsini, the highly respected winemaker and owner of Villa Le Corti in Chianti Classico and Tenuta Marsiliana estate, in Manciano, in the province of Grosseto.


I can think of no other single ‘Consorzio’ that has such a varied diversification of wines as the Associazione Grandi Vini della Costa Toscana. International grape varieties such as Cabernet Sauvignon, Petit Verdot, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Syrah, Viognier, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Nero, Semillon and Grenache are grown here, in conjunction with Sangiovese, Vermentino, Alicante, Ciliegiolo, Ansonico, Colorino, Canaiolo, Trebbiano, Malvasia, Grechetto, Fiano, Pugnitello and Durella.


The result of this collection of grapes gives rise to an astonishing variety of wine styles, united by the special climate conditions resulting from the proximity of the Tyrrhenian Sea.


The journey of wineries listed in the Association will take us from North to South of Tuscany. Among these we will notice some famous names, and easily recognised wine labels, but it’s the unfamiliar that the intrepid wine hunter will find gems that are to become firm favourites of the future.



To give some indication of the gems awaiting your attention...





Villa Santo Stefano

Loto 2019

Toscana Rosso IGT A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Petit Verdot

Deep ruby red in colour. Dark cherry, blackberry, blackcurrant, white smoke, orange peel, light balsam. Cool entry. Lightly textured. Layered minerality. Crunchy tannins weave in and out of fresh tangy acidity, both will become less tense given bottle time. Pleasant progression with a long articulated close.

Points 95 TW






Podere Fedespina

Fedespina 2019

Toscana Rosso IGT Pinot Nero 100%

Pale ruby red in colour. Aromatics of dark blue florals and blackberry jam. Red and black berry, salty liquorice, worn leather, balsam, complex minerality with warm spice nuances. Cool silky entry. Medium bodied. Fresh. Juicy. Rounded tannins vie with zingy acidity. Still in its youth. Tapers slightly after mid palate to a long expressive finish. Needs bottle time.

Points 92-94 TW







Poggio Levante

Unné 2019

Maremma Toscana Bianco DOC Vermentino 100%

Pale straw yellow with greenish highlights. Subtle aromas of buttercup and gardenia florals. Clean, crisp entry showing Asian fruits of Lychee, dragon fruit and rambutan. Dry nutshell nuances. Energy is lifted by layered minerality and citrusy notes on the back end. Good length on a linear finish.

Points 91 TW







Podere Sapaio

Volpolo 2021

Bolgheri Rosso DOC A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Petit Verdot

Deep ruby red in colour with black undertones. Aromatics of violet florals and crushed blackberry fruit. Dark cherry, blueberry, boysenberry, dark Eastern baking spice, bitter. orange peel, faint nuances of balsam and humus. Rich warm entry. Savoury. Rich textural depth. Showing youthful tannins and acidity. Broad long juicy close.

Points 93 TW





Petra

Hebo 2021

Toscana Rosso IGT A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Sangiovese.

Intense ruby red in colour. Aromatics of dark purple and blue florals; violet and hyacinth. Black cherry, blueberry, dewberry, crushed rock minerality, spice notes and menthol infused herbal notes. Upon entry expands in all directions showing core black fruit surrounded by structured tannins and fresh acidity. Agile. Linear. Terrific persistence. Medium length finish.

Points 92 TW





Podere La Regola

Regola 2019

Costa Toscana Rosso IGT Cabernet Franc 100%

Intense ruby red in colour. Aromas of rose petal and crushed red berry. Dark cherry, loganberry, pomegranate, plum, salty liquorice, vanilla, faint cedar nuances. Warm, graceful and agile upon entry. Balance between tannins and acidity. Compelling on the mid palate. Distinctive personality. A beauty.

Points 95 TW






Poggio Al Gello

Bianco Vermentino 2021

Toscana Bianco IGT

Straw yellow in colour with greenish undertones. Intense bouquet of orchid fruit and fresh cut spring flowers. Yellow apple, quince, gooseberry, cedar shavings. Medium to full bodied. Fresh, clean and very persistent.

Points 89 TW







Monastero dei Frati Bianchi

Deir 2018

Toscana Rosso IGT Syrah, Merlot

Deep ruby red in colour. Black rose petal and cassis aromatics. Blackberry, blackcurrant, blueberry, plum, liquorice, blood orange, dark spice and dried Mediterranean herbs. Rich, muscular and agile.Tons of energy that carries the structure through mid palate to a broad, juicy long close.

Points 93 TW







Marchesi Ginori Lisci

Podernovo 2017

Costa Toscana IGT Syrah

Medium ruby red in colour. Violet, bluebell and lavender aromatics. Wild cherry, boysenberry, dark plum, blonde tobacco, spice and slight nuances of bitter chocolate.

Warm rich entry. Complex deep textural feel. Vibrant. Exotic and spicy character. Broad long intense finish.

Points 92 TW







Moris Farms

Avvoltore. 2018

Toscana Rosso IGT Sangiovese 75% Cabernet Sauvignon 20% Syrah 5%

Medium ruby red in colour. Old English red rose petal and Freesia. Red cherry, dewberry, vanilla/ oak notes, dark spice. Secondary nuances of wild black berry fruit, salty liquorice, menthol herbal notes, Rich, exceptionally juicy and supple. Has gained weight since I last tasted it. Savoury. Articulated long close.

Points 93 TW





Le Vigne del Grillo

Gabberi 2021

Toscana Bianco IGT Vermentino

So young and shy. Not giving much away, hints of green apple, saline energy, white florals, fine tannins vie with fresh minerality.

Points 86-88 TW











I Giusti & Zanza

Perbruno 2020

Costa Toscana Rosso IGT Syrah 100%

Intense ruby red in colour with dark undertones. Florals of rose petal and violet. The florals will slowly disappear as the spicy nature of the wine takes over as it ages. Dark berry fruits, orange peel, Mediterranean scrub, notes of tobacco.Youthful crunchy tannins and zesty acidity still need to play out. Flamboyant in style. Plump and juicy. Lingers on the close.

Points 92-94 TW






Collemassari

Melacce 2022

Montecucco DOC Vermentino

Straw yellow in colour. Yellow and white florals. White peach, mangosteen pine berry. Freshness comes from distinctive minerality. Tannins are youthfully tense and vie with zingy acidity. On the close a slight citrusy character comes into play.

Points 90 TW









Bertazzoli

Monó 2021

Costa Toscana Bianco IGT Vermentino

Pale straw yellow in colour. Aromatics of yellow florals and tropical fruits. Medium bodied. Flirtatious and exotic. Translucent. Good showing.

Points 90 TW











Valle del Sole

Occhi di Fata 2022

Toscana Rosato IGT Sangiovese

Pale pink with copper tones. White floral aromas. Wild cherry, white raspberry, mulberry, saline infused energy. Poised and slightly elegant. Supple red fruit palate. Medium length close.

Points 89 TW









Usiglian Del Vescovo

Il Ginestraio 2022

Toscana Bianco IGT Chardonnay, Viognier.

Medium golden yellow in colour with greenish tints. Aromas of acacia and buttercup.

White peach, white mulberry, raspberry. Medium bodied. Contains freshness and energy. Oyster shell undertone of minerality. Bright. Good showing in its youth.

Points 90-92 TW








Tenuta Mareli

Remagno 2019

Toscana Rosso IGT Sangiovese, Syrah, Merlot

Medium ruby red in colour. Aromas of violet and gardenia. Blackberry, damson, dark plum and wild cherry. Muscular yet agile. Fine tannins have done their work and almost disappeared, leaving fresh acidity to lift the palate aided by complex yet reserved minerality. Balanced and poised. Super attractive wine.

Points 94 TW






Tenuta Il Quinto

Quinto 2019

Toscana Rosso IGT Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Petit Verdot.

Intense ruby red in colour. Dark florals vie with black berry fruits, dark plum, currant, dried Mediterranean herbs and notes of balsam. Very elegant body. Savoury and earthy. Sumptuous. Considerable appeal. Long broad juicy finish. Wow!

Points 95 TW








Tenuta Adamo

Toscana Bianco IGT 2021

A blend of Trebbiano, Malvasia Bianca, Vermentino and other native white grapes.

Pale straw in colour. White fruits, yellow and white florals. Saline energy. Notes of dried Mediterranean herbs and menthol infused underbrush. Tapers after min palate to a long, persistent close.

Points 89 TW









Tenute Lunelli Podernovo

Auritea 2017

Costa Toscana Rosso IGT Cabernet Franc

Deep ruby red in colour with bright highlights. Blackberry, blackcurrant, dark plum, Grilled Mediterranean herbs, Mocha, sightings of liquorice, balsam and dark spice.

Warm entry showing poise and polish.Medium to full bodied. Balanced. Savoury and earthy. Fine light textural depth. A wine of impact.

Points 96 TW






Pieve Santo Stefano

Ludovico Sardini 2018

Colline Lucchesi Rosso DOC Sangiovese, Colorino, Syrah

Intense ruby red in colour. Florals of hyacinth and violet. Bing cherry, liquorice, leather and balsamic notes. Intense display of Sangiovese. Very serious. Tons of gravitas.

Not a shy personality. Forward tannins. Medium length.

Points 88 TW







Suveraia

Bacucco di Suveraia 2018

Costa Toscana Rosso DOC Sangiovese 80% Cabernet Sauvignon 10% Merlot 10%

Medium ruby red in colour. Dark cherry, plum, loganberry, liquorice, cedar shavings and aromas of toasted coffee been. Structured and serious. Tannins still showing crunchy youthfulness, clean acidity assists freshness. Has energy but is still tense. Good long finish

Points 90 TW







Tenuta Prima Pietra

Prima Pietra 2019

Toscana Rosso IGT Merlot 50% Cabernet Sauvignon 30% Cabernet Franc 10% Petit Verdot 10%

Intense and bright ruby red in colour. Blackberry, blueberry, plum, salty liquorice, sandalwood notes, white smoke and worn leather. Spreads across your mid palate showing class and opulence, textural depth and tremendous resonance. Hits all the right notes in my book.

Points 95 TW






Marina Romin

Aura 2021

Costa Toscana Bianco IGT Vermentino

Clear straw yellow in colour.Yellow florals vie with Neroli on the nose. Grapefruit, green apple, sea pebble minerality. Lemon and citrus flavours abound. Lightly textured. Refreshing mouthfeel. Saline infused energy on the back end. Well put together.

Points 90 TW







Tenuta di Valgiano

Tenuta di Valgiano 2017

Colline Lucchesi Rosso DOC Sangiovese 60% Merlot 20% Syrah20%

Bright and deep ruby red in colour. Aromatics of violet, hyacinth and cassis. Blackberry, Bing cherry, dewberry, dried Mediterranean herbs, cedar notes and balsam. Mineral complexity is historic. Textural depth of the Mariana Trench. Primary flavours are epic. Rich. Full bodied. Secondary nuances of blonde tobacco and a smidgin of menthol notes. Showing energy and tension. Needs bottle age. Outstanding!

Points 96 TW




Capua

Miosogno 2016

Toscana Rosso IGT Alicante

Deep ruby red in colour .Dark blue and purple florals. Red and black wild berries, pipe tobacco, dark spice, blackcurrant, wild cherry, loganberry, floral underbrush, slate and a puff of ash smoke. Rich. Juicy. Full bodied. Caressing tannins vie with fresh acidity. Articulated long finish.

Points 92 TW






Le Palaie

V. 2021

Toscana Bianco IGT Viognier 100%

Pale straw yellow with bright highlights in colour. Aromatics typical of Viognier: Narcissus, lemon blossom and acacia. Apricot, gooseberry, white peach. Citrus zest, crushed sage and curry leaf. Warm and inviting entry, saline notes, tapers slightly to a persistent linear close.

Points 90 TW






Villa Le Corti

Principe Corsini Spumante Rosé

Sparkling Rosato, Sangiovese

Bright salmon pink in colour. Pale rose petal and fresh cut spring flowers. White peach, strawberry with green top, bread crust. Freshness comes from tannin structure. Fruity and floral character. Light in texture. Delivers a fine perlage with distinctive minerality.

Points 91 TW










Marsiliana

Vermentino 2022

Toscana Bianco IGT

Pale straw yellow in colour. White floral aromas and cut green stem. Clean and crisp. Medium bodied. Seashell minerality. Saline infused acidity lifts the palate leaving a fresh mouthfeel. Linear medium length finish.

Points 90 TW








The wines listed below, were sampled accompanying dinner at L’Imbuto restaurant in Lucca. Owner Cristiano Tomei is without doubt one of the most inventive and gifted chefs in Italy...

…and my new best friend!



La Regola

Lauro 2019

Costa Toscana Bianco IGT


Poggio l’Apparita

San Michele n.3 2022

Maremma Toscana Rosato DOC


Fattoria Colle Verde

Terre di Matraja 2021

Costa Toscana Rosso IGT


Tenuta Di Valgiano

Palistorti di Valgiano 2021

Colline Lucchesi Rosso DOC


Capua di Riccardo Capua

Mio Sogno 2016

Alicante Maremma Toscana Rosso IGT


Fattoria La Torre

Esse 2017

Toscana Rosso IGT


Fattoria Varramista

Varramista 2016

Toscana Rosso IGT


Podere La Regola

La Regola 2018

Toscana Rosso IGT


Tenuta Di Valgiano

Tenuta di Valgiano 2013

Colline Lucchesi Rosso DOCG



My sincere thanks to the President of the Associazione Grandi Cru Della Costa Toscana and to the board members and Director for their invitation to this special event and for the hospitality.


© Tony Wood Italian Wine 2023

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