Piedmont is the region in northwest Italy, where the great wines Barolo and Barbaresco are produced. Both wines are made from Nebbiolo grapes. Conventionally referred to as Italy’s “wine of kings and king of wines”,
Barolo is well known for its full bodied character and capacity to evolve through ageing.
Nebbiolo vines grown in the predominantly clay soils of La Morra tend to be more fragrant but less structured than Barolo’s from other areas. Serralunga D’ Alba soils are made up of layers of limestone, marl and sandy marl that give Barolo powerful, tannic structure and longevity.
Sand gives wine more elegance like those from Cannubi vineyards, while Castiglione Falleto soils give a mixture of layers that yield balanced, fragrant and structured wines with finesse and complexity.
The 2014 vintage in Piedmont was a very difficult one, cool grey summer, multiple hailstorms and sporadic heavy rain... all this really challenged the winemakers. Late summer sun helped (hence the late harvest times), but the damage had already occurred.
Some winemakers sadly had little chance of making any wine at all:
Cavallotto, a winery on the way up in my opinion, made no Barolo that year.
Luca Corrado of Vietti did not bottle his Barolo Brunate.
Ceretto did not produce their Barolo Brunate or Barolo Bricco Rocche.
Roberto Conterno decided not to make his Barolo Casino Francia but will release Montefortino and Barolo Cerretta.
Recently I was kindly invited by Justerini & Brooks in London to taste some Piedmont wines including samples of the 2014 vintage.
On the tasting tables were wines from Paolo Conterno, Luigi Oddero, Paolo Scavino, Azelia, Fratelli Brovia, Elio Altare, Roberto Voerzio and many more...
As previously mentioned 2014 was a nightmare vintage due to weather conditions, so I was not expecting much from the 2014 wines that were bottled...but I was in for a surprise when I found a few gems!
The saying goes: “where there is a will there is a way” and with skill, flair, doggedness and fervour, achievements can be made. The proof being the wines of Roberto Voerzio and Elio Altare.
Tasting Notes | Piedmont 2014's and other vintages
Barolo Riserva Ginestra Paolo Conterno 2010
Subtle bouquet, cherry, liquorice, spice. Midweight, balanced integrated tannins.
2018-2023 | 94 Points
Barolo Bricco Ambrogio Paolo Scavino 2014
Huge welcoming bouquet. Plum, liquorice, herbs, cigar box, Eastern spice. Ripe tannins. Great balance.
2020-2030 | 94 Points
Barolo Margherita Azelia 2014
Exotic, intoxicating floral nose. Red fruit, liquorice, cinnamon, candied orange peel. Fresh tannins. Needs bottle time.
2022-2037 | 93 Points
Barolo Santo Stefano di Perno Giuseppe Mascarello 2011
Good nose. Cherry, rose, orange peel. Balanced, silky.
2018-2025 | 92 Points
Barolo Monprivato Giuseppe Mascarello 2013
Mid weight. Red cherry, slight orange peel, smooth. Does not come across as a Barolo. Good wine but nothing like 2008 or prior.
2020- 2025 | 90 Points
Barolo Brunante Roberto Voerzio 2014
Deep. Structured. Black cherry, liquorice, anise. Fresh tannins. Balanced. Needs bottle time Great wine.
2022-2037 | 95 Points
Barolo La Serra Roberto Voerzio 2014
Red cherry, orange peel, menthol, liquorice. Integrated.
2022-2037 | 95 Points
Barolo Cerequio Roberto Voerzio 2014
Welcoming bouquet. Red cherry, kirsh, dried rose petal, Eastern spice, burnt orange peel. Silky, long finish.
2020-2035 | 94+ Points
Barolo Cerretta Vigna Bricco Elio Altare 2012
Powerful, floral, red fruit, spice notes, mint, liquorice, pipe tobacco.
2022-2037 | 93 Points
Barolo Vigneto Arborina Elio Altare 2014
Fresh warm bouquet. Rose petal, liquorice, menthol. Mid weight. Forward tannins. Elegant.
2020-2035 | 94+ Points
With revered Piedmont winemaker Roberto Voerzio
