Isole e Olena

Paolo de Marchi is a colossus in Chianti Classico, yet you will not find a more modest, jovial, engaging winemaker in Italy. The morning I visited Isole e Olena, light rain had fallen holding up the final day or two of the 2018 harvest being completed.

This released Paolo to join me on his terrace overlooking the vineyards of his famous winery, where he spoke of the 50’s and 60’s when, as a young man, he decided to turn his passion for nature and wine into a lifelong commitment. He recalled that the estate his father purchased in the mid 50’s included 130 tenant farmers and workers and yet by the early 60’s only 15 workers remained due to the exodus to the larger towns an cities.

Since those difficult days Paolo has become a highly esteemed agronomist and enologist, turning a tenanted farm into one of the highest praised Chianti Classico estates in existence.

This has taken 45 years. Firstly, Paolo focused his attention on the study of clonal selection of Sangiovese which resulted in Cepparello, the wine named after the small stream on the estate. Next, was the understanding of his terroir and which grape varieties would benefit most from which position. Old terraces were rebuilt, followed by new planting and higher density. These new plantings mainly consisted of Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah and Chardonnay.

The long term objective was to produce the best results by expressing that terroir in the chosen grape varieties, which in my opinion has been completely fulfilled. All the wines from this estate have precise characteristics that go well beyond the varietal.

Having enjoyed all the wines from this estate over a period of more than twenty years, I can confidently state that Cepparello has not changed in style over time. As the vines matured and the weather patterns changed this wine needs more time to show all its complexities. The quality of the Chianti Classico has improved exceptionally, the Cabinet Sauvignon and Syrah are beautifully crafted. The Chardonnay is bright and focused. The Vin Santo is a work of passion, quality and expression. The Gran Selezione a work in progress.

Cepparello, is the flagship wine of Isole e Olena. Made with the finest Sangiovese grapes from the old vines planted in the 60’s and 70’s (some were replanted in the late 80’s). These plots are situated between 350 and 430 m above sea level with south west exposure.

Depending on vintage, maceration is between 16 and 28 days utilising a ‘rack and return’ system (removal of seeds from the juice) as well as ‘pumping over’ (to increase extraction of tannins and colour from the skins). Cepparello is then aged in French Oak barrels 30% of which are new.

Tasting notes

Isole e Olena Toscana IGT Collezione Private Chardonnay 2015

Bright straw yellow in colour, medium to full body. Green apple, pear, camomile flower.

Full of energy. Juicy.

Points 92 TW

Isole e Olena Chianti Classico DOCG 2015

Sangiovese 80% Canaiolo 15% Syrah 5% Bright ruby red in colour. Medium body. Fresh red fruit, dried rose. Forward tannins. Needs bottle time.

Points 93 TW

Isole e Olena Cepparello 2014

Opaque ruby red in colour. Opens full bodied with red cherry, blue floral, damp soil, spices. Silky. Balanced. Complexity will arrive in time. A triumph for the winemaker in a difficult year.

Points 96 TW

Isole e Olena Cepparello 2015

Full bodied. Concentrated bouquet of fresh fruit and floral notes, lush red cherry and warm

blackberries, rosemary, spice, tobacco. Concentrated. Balanced yet so elegant. Finish is endless. Glorious!

Points 97 TW

Isole e Olena Toscana IGT Collezione Privata Cabernet Sauvignon 2013

Medium bodied. Cherry and blackberries, sweet tobacco, smooth tannins, aromatic. Restrained. Beautiful.

Points 95 TW

Isole e Olena Toscana IGT Collezione Privata Syrah 2015

Medium body. Rich, black fruit, plum, herbs, notes of black tea. Savoury. Great balance. Underpinned with a fine line of minerality on the back palate. Needs time.

Points 94 TW

© Tony Wood