In 1975 Gabriele Mastrojanni, a lawyer, purchased the San Pio and Loreto estates in Montalcino. The land was poor in quality, consisting of steep slopes where only Holm oaks, gorse and broom survived. This land was suited to wolves, wild boar, deer, hare and buzzard, a hunting ground rather than a place to farm.
Nevertheless, following the path taken by Brunello di Montalcino pioneer Biondi Santi (who cleared and planted similar terrain), Gabriele planted Sangiovese, the vine that seemed to thrive in this unyielding ground.
The Mastrojanni estate in Castelnuovo dell’Abate, south east of Montalcino, today consists of 100 hectares, 40 under vine, 18 of which are set aside for Brunello. The height varies from 150 metres to 420 metres above sea level.
The planted vineyards are south, south east and south west facing. To the south east the ground has more clay and tuff (a light, porous rock formed by consolidation of volcanic ash) with sandstone. The south and south west vineyards show similar breakdown with added limestone pebbles. The oldest vines (40 years), are dedicated to making the highly acclaimed Vigna Cru Brunello di Montalcino Schiena d’Asino named after the shape of the hill where the vines are situated, facing south east to south west. Production is 3,500 to 5,300 bottles per vintage.
Another celebrated but more recent Cru is Brunello di Montalcino Vigna Loreto noted for its
elegance. Production is 6,500 to 7,800 bottles per vintage.
The early plantings were positioned in such a way as to allow tractors to work with ease, in addition Sig. Mastrojanni was convinced that high density planting (5,700 plants per hectare) was the correct option, this was groundbreaking (no pun intended!) at that time.
Mastrojanni wines show aromatic floral tendencies such as elderflower. They are elegant, fresh, and mature well, showing complexity with bottle age. They also display the typical south western Montalcino style of rich extract with austere tannins.
At the start of the nineties Gabriele’s son, Antonio Mastrojanni began to manage the estate with the assistance of Andrea Machetti an oenologist who studied new techniques in the modern cellars of Banfi in the early 80’s. One cannot overestimate the impact and importance of Andrea Machetti's presence in the history of the Mastrojanni winery.
Having taken total charge in 1992 Machetti worked tirelessly to promote the estate to a wider audience, but far more importantly transformed the winery with his innovative decision making.
These changes were introduced to improve the quality and expression of the wine: vinification took place in cement vats following careful crop thinning and thorough fruit selection.
Since 2008 this obsession with fruit quality was underpinned by a second selection belt, where any fruit with the slightest possible defect was eliminated from the fermentation process.
The Mastrojanni Estate was sold to the Illy Group in 2008 as result of the friendship between
Andrea Machetti and Francesco Illy who had purchased the neighbouring estate Podere Le Ripe in 1997.
A new winery, which was in the final stages of construction at the time of my visit, shows the total commitment the Illy Group have for the long term evolution of this famous estate. Sig.Riccardo Illy is the company chairman, Andrea Machetti is now M.D. of Mastrojanni and Maurizio Castelli is its winemaker.
My visit and tasting was conducted by my good friend Sig.a Rada Linke, sales director of
Mastrojanni.
Tasting Notes
Mastrojanni Rosso di Montalcino 2016
Bright ruby red in colour with mauve undertones. Showing cherry and black fruit cassis, mild
liquorice, fresh herbs. Youthful yet with a mature mouthfeel.
Points 92+ TW
Mastrojanni Brunello di Montalcino 2013
Bright ruby red in colour. Full bodied, red fruit, dried herb, liquorice, sweet tobacco. Fresh tannins. Balanced. Long finish.
Points 94 TW
Mastrojanni Brunello di Montalcino 2011
Dark ruby red in colour. Aromatic, red fruit, worn leather, balsamic notes, hint of lavender,
undertone of minerality. Smooth and fresh, surprising for such a warm vintage. A good showing.
Points 94 TW
Mastrojanni Brunello di Montalcino 2004
Ruby red in colour with slight amber rim. Floral and balsamic notes on the bouquet, meat, ash, graphite, dried sage. Little short on the end. Drinking well now.
Points 93 TW
© Tony Wood