Vini d’Abbazia 2025

During the first week of June, I accepted an invitation to a small village in the Agro Pontino, a hamlet in the province of Latina near Rome, which houses one of the most beautiful and fascinating Cistercian abbeys in Europe. It is here, in the cloister of the Abbey of Fossanova, once the home of St.Thomas Aquinas, that the only wine festival showcasing the wines produced in abbeys and monasteries takes place. Wines that come to life in ancient cloisters, and are produced by religious communities that continue to cultivate the vine as a form of active meditation.

The monastic winemaking tradition has its roots (no pun intended), in the Middle Ages, when monks, in addition to copying manuscripts and praying, cultivated vineyards. The monasteries were therefore not only refuges of prayer and silence, they were true productive cells, centres of agricultural and winemaking tradition.

In abbeys’ vineyards monks found a form of daily liturgy and exercise in active contemplation.They did not work the land for ambition or commerce, but out of necessity, and even more, out of obedience to a higher order. Within the rigid rules and timetables, marked by bells, the monks soon learned to observe nature with more attentive eyes than those of the common peasant. The monastic cellars often dug into the rock and protected by ideal climate conditions, became places of advanced experimentation. Here, wines were stored, the results of pruning were measured and recorded. Vintages and weather conditions were compared, and the most resistant root stock were selected.

Wine was not only intended for the altar in celebration of the Eucharist, but also for the sustenance of the community, the reception of visitors and pilgrims and for medicinal purposes.

Grape varieties adapted to European microclimates, thanks to the foresight of the monks who created a viticultural management system, surprisingly similar to what we now refer to as “sustainable viticulture.” Even the landscape was transformed, orderly rows, terraces, water channels. The abbey not only produced wine, but taught how, becoming the first informed schools of oenology.

The event known as Vini d’ Abbazia was conceived by journalist Rocco Tolfa, with a purpose of bringing the monastic winemaking tradition into dialogue with the present. All this takes place in the Cistercian complex of Fossanova. The abbey, built between 1163 and 1300 on the remains of an ancient Benedictine monastery was consecrated in 1208.

Many masterclasses were available during the three day event. A tribute to the grape variety of Lazio: Cesanese, was the first to command the visitor, followed by a talk and tasting of sparkling Italian wines. The next day a fascinating masterclass on the winemaking universe of Ancient Rome, including an insight on the contemporary rediscovery of amphora winemaking.

As the weather was exceptionally hot, I decided to mainly taste and review white and rosato wines.

Tasting Notes

Monastero di Bose

San Masseo

Grechetto Assisi DOP 2024

Pale straw in colour. Florals of honeysuckle and lemon blossom. Fresh, youthful, balanced, further floral aromas of daffodil, melon, gooseberries, grapefruit. Crushed rock minerality. Savoury. Medium body. Medium length.

Points 88 TW

Monastero di Bose

San Masseo

Masseo  Assisi DOP 2022

Straw yellow in colour with slight copper undertones. Florals of broom with cut damp hay. Essence of citrus, distant lemon curd, blanched almond, oaky vanilla and golden plum. Medium to full bodied. Agile and juicy. Slight unevenness.

Points 86 TW

Muri Gries

Sűdtirol Terlander Alto Adige DOC 2024

Pinot Blanc

Pale straw yellow in colour. Lifted aromas of yellow florals including buttercup. Peach, pear, grapefruit, yellow apple. Fresh, forward friendly acidity, mineral character, spice notes, almond nuances on the close. Complex. Youthful. Long on the finish.

Points 87 TW

Castello di Magione

Belfiore Rosato Umbria IGT 2024

Gamay from Trasimeno (Grenache)

Palest pink in colour with orange undertones. On the bouquet crushed spring florals and citrus notes with dried Mediterranean herb nuances, distant orchid fruit. Very young and angular.

Points 85+ TW

Le Donne del Vino (Lazio)

Vigne Toniche

Reale Vino Bianco 2020 (Ancient and rare vines)

Medium yellow gold in colour. Fine nose of orchard fruits, sea pebble minerality, greengage and plum. Pear, white peach, muted vanilla and lime leaves. Very complex. Lively on the palate. Savoury with light citrusy overtones. Shade below full bodied. Great energy. Wide and long on the conclusion.

Points 89 TW

Casale del Giglio

Viognier Lazio IGT 2024

Bright yellow in colour. Heady aromatics of white rose petals, broom, acacia blossom and crushed lime leaves. White peach, grapefruit, apricot, sweet scented spice. Upon entry: silky tannins and fresh lively acidity. Complex mineral notes. Persistent. Linear. Full bodied. Articulated on the close.

Points 89 TW

Cincinnato

Quinto Bellone Lazio IGT 2024

Translucent yellow in colour. On the nose delicate and fruity. Orchard fruits, yellow peach. On entry, youthful, agile, harmonious and lively. High level of quality acidity. Layered minerality. Good length on the close.

Points 89 TW

Arnaldo Caprai

Colli Martani

Grecante Montefalco DOC 2024

Grechetto

Aromas of white and yellow florals.Tropical fruits, yellow peach, green apple, hawthorn nuances. Medium to full bodied. Lightly textured. Brisk acidity. Balanced. Chalky tannins. Distant mineral note. Long and persistent.

Points 88 TW

Kellerei Cantina

Eisacktal Valle Isarco Ato Adige

Aristos Kerner DOC 2023

Florals of white and yellow petals. Green apple, grapefruit, yellow melon, mild spice, white pepper, distant oaky vanilla. A touch under full bodied. Fresh, crunchy tannin structure. Poignant acidity. Balanced. Intense. Linear. Stone minerality notes. Long and articulated finish.

Points 90 TW

Kellerei Cantina

Eisacktal Valle Isarco Alto Adige

Sabiona Kerner Riserva DOC 2021

Pale yellow in colour with golden hue highlights. On the nose a mixture of green apple, peach, apricot and greengage. Upon entry, complex textural depth and volume. Balanced. Linear. Layered minerality. Clean mouthfeel. Fresh. Almond nuances. Saline infused energy. Alpine floral overtones on the close. Impressive.

Points 93 TW

Kellerei Cantina

Eisacktal Valle Isarco Alto Adige

Sabiona Sylvaner Riserva DOC 2021

Translucent yellow in colour. Aromatic floral profile of gardenia, daisy and pine tree bark.

Essence of citrus and dried herbs. Warm orchard fruits, blanched almonds, chalky tannins, saline infused energy and white smoke. Balanced. Persistent. Vivid. Broad and long on the finish.

Points 92 TW

Feudi di San Gregorio

Serrocielo

Falanghina del Sannio DOC 2024

Palest yellow in colour. Aromas of honeysuckle and acacia, grapefruit, yellow peach, golden plum, almond and distant spice nuances. On the palate fruity, saline notes, fresh, linear and long on the close.

Points 89 TW

Feudi Di San Gregorio

Cutizzi

Greco di Tufo DOCG Riserva 2023

Deep straw yellow in colour. Lifted aromas of garden herbs, mineral notes, blanched almond. White peach, pear, green apple. Complex. Persistent. Balanced.Citrusy notes. Zesty acidity. Fine tannins. Fresh, clean mouthfeel.

Points 90 TW

Donato Giangirolami

Propizio

Grechetto Lazio IGP 2024

Straw yellow in colour with greenish reflections. Aromas of exotic fruits, hawthorn, white florals, lime leaves and warm pear. On the palate, fresh, agile, savoury, balanced, elegant and rounded. Zesty acidity and crunchy tannins interplay with mild minerality. Unusual pineapple nuances on the close.

Points 89 TW

Abbazia di MonteOliveto Maggiore

In Albis IGT 2024

Vermentino

Translucent yellow in colour. Heady yet delicate aromas of yellow florals and white rose petal.

Influences of pear, guava, yellow peach and plum. On the palate: silky tannins vie with mellow acidity aided by an energy lift from complex, layered minerality. The fruit quality carries this imbibe from start to an epic close.

Points 93 TW

Abbazia di MonteOliveto Maggiore

Rosatum IGT 2023

Sangiovese

Pale salmon in colour with copper highlights. Aromatic florals of pale rose petal, gardenia and lilac. Redcurrant, plum, distant pomegranate and cherry nuances, mild spice and almond notes.

Upon entry: lightly textured, finely grained tannins interplay with brisk acidity. Complex. Persistent. Linear. Medium length on the finish.

Points 90 TW

On day two, after leaving the tasting at the Abbey I visited the winery of Marco Carpineti in Cori...

A brief word on the Marco Carpineti winery: Nestled on the panoramic slopes of the Lepini Mountains in Cori, a historic town in Lazio that dates back to the 4th century BC. Located 56 km south of Rome at an elevation of about 400 meters, a family run winery with Marco in charge since 1986.Transitioned to organic farming in 1994, this commitment means that no herbicides, chemical fertilisers or synthetic products are used. The estate spans over 52 hectares, 41 hectares under vine, the remaining used for olive groves.The vineyards are planted with Bellone, Arciprete Bianco, and two Greek varieties known as Moro and Giallo for white wines. For reds: Nero Buono di Cori, Montepulciano and Cesanese. The soils are mainly volcanic, rich in fossils. Annual production is approximately 300,000 bottles.

Tasting Notes

Kius Brut

Metodo Classico 2022

Bellone 100%

Light straw yellow in colour. Distant florals of white flowers and broom. Warm bread crust, tropical fruits, toasted almond and hazelnut, complex mineral profile including notes of iron ore, fine perlage, essence of citrus, fresh balanced tannin and acidity interaction.

Points 87 TW

Kius Rosé

Extra Brut Metodo Classico 2021

Nero Buono

36 months on lees. Dosage 2/3 g.p.l. Pale salmon pink in colour with undertones of copper. Plush pink rose petal florals. Wild cherry, strawberry and redcurrant. Very fine perlage. Silky entry showing a balanced, lively, fresh imbibe. Solid tannin structure. Poignant but friendly acidity. Saline infused metallic energy. Leaves a clean long finish.

Points 90 TW

Kius Pas Dosé

Metodo Classico 2016

Nero Buono

Bright straw yellow in colour with golden reflections. Floral aromas of white and yellow petal. Yellow apple, pear, apricot, and distant iodine. Saline notes drive the energy. Almost reverted back to a still wine. Hugely enjoyable. Fresh and persistent. Great balance.Savoury. Long on the close.

Points 90 TW

Collesanti

Bellone Lazio DOC 2023

Pale straw in colour with greenish reflections. Intense floral and fruit aromas including peach, star fruit, yellow apple, pineapple, notes of hawthorn and broom. Smooth entry, rounded yet tight. Secondary notes of Asian pear and almond. Leaves a fresh, clean mouthfeel.

Points 88 TW

Moro

Greco Moro Lazio IGT 2022

N.B. These dark green grapes that are picked very early in the morning and cold macerated, before the skins turn brown. Fermented for 12 days under controlled temperature. The refinement takes place in the bottle for about a year.

Bright translucent yellow in colour with a dull greenish reflection.On the bouquet: yellow peach, blanched almond, broom and fresh damp hay, with overtones of sea pebble minerality and Galangal. The later lifts the palate like a bolt of lightning. Forward tannin structure. Fresh acidity. Ample and generous. Long on the close.

Points 90 TW

Nzù

Bellone Lazio IGT 2021

Very small production. Maturation in terracotta amphorae. Golden yellow in colour. Aromas of hay, apple blossom. Followed by yellow flesh fruits, candied lemon rind, hazelnut, flint and matchstick notes.Silky entry, balanced, full of pulsing energy. Crunchy fresh tannins and tingling acidity. Lush and linear.Complex. Intense. Captivating. Unique. Epic on the finish.

Points 93 TW

Acknowledgement

An exceptionally engaging event, well organised by SMStudio Media and Communication Services. I graciously thank them for their invitation and particularly Stefania Mafalda and Andrea Lopez who led the itineraries each day.

N.B. Info on the Fossanova Abbey history sourced with AI.

© Tony Wood Italian Wine 2025