When high praise is just not enough: Castellare di Castellina

Located in the heart of the Chianti Classico area, near Castellina, this estate was purchased by Paolo Panerai in the late 1970's and is made up of four separate farms, namely: Castellare, Caselle, San Niccolò and Le Case, ranging from 390m to 460m above sea level. The aspiration of Paolo Panerai was to produce wine of the best possible quality.

In order to fulfil this wish, the assistance of the Universities of Milan and Florence was pursued, along with advice from Giacomo Tachis (Italy's greatest enologist 1933 - 2016) not in a formal position, but as friend. In addition the foremost French enologist Professor É. Peynaud was consulted, so expertise was not in short supply.

Innovation and tradition were the standard bearers of this unique estate, only using indigenous Tuscan grape varieties, along with the new concept of barriques (225Lt).

The resulting wines spoke for themselves.

The 1985 I Sodi Di S. Niccolò, a blend of Sangioveto 85% and Malvasia Nera 15%, was the first Italian wine included in Wine Spectator's Inaugural Top 100 ranking, in fourth place. The following year this achievement was repeated, making it the only Italian wine to earn more than 95 points.

Tachis comment on the wine was: "An excellent Sangioveto and a mature Malvasia Nera. That’s unusual for Chianti. I understand not wanting to mix Tuscany’s showcase red grape with French grapes, but it's an exception (for it to taste this good). It's usually not the case"

From those early days to the present, forty years have elapsed and new wines have been added to the cast. The estates most notable addition being Poggio Ai Merli (100% Merlot) and two Chianti Classico Riserva, one of them a single cru called Il Poggiale.

And yet after all the plaudits, all the points, all of the awards I firmly believe that I Sodi Di S. Niccolò is still one of the most underrated wines in the world…

…Perhaps the contents of these two barrels will finally acquire the world’s status this wine so richly deserves.

Tasting Notes

Castellare di Castellina Chianti Classico DOCG 2016

Sangioveto 95% Canaiolo 5%. The grapes come from sandy limestone soil, with south west orientation at 410 m above sea level. Aged for 8 months in used French oak barriques. Bright ruby red in colour. Red cherry and plum, Mediterranean herbs, fresh fine tannins, good acidity and balance.

Points 92 TW

Castellare di Castellina Chianti Classico Riserva Il Poggiale 2015

Sangioveto 90% Canaiolo 5% and Ciliegiolo 5% from 45 year old vines. Elevation circa 450 m above sea level. Aged up to 18 months in French oak barriques (20% new and 80% used). Deep ruby red colour. Sweet red cherry, tobacco, spice, graphite. Warm. Finely balanced. Inviting and intense.

Points 94-96 TW

Castellare di Castellina I Sodi Di S.Niccolò 2014

Sangioveto 85% Malvasia Nera 15%. 40-50 year old vines. 30 months in French oak barriques (50% new, 50% used). Garnet red in colour. Black cherry, blueberry, liquorice. Structured. Seamless. Well crafted.

Points 93 TW

Castellare di Castellina Poggio ai Merli 2015

Merlot 100%. 18 months in French oak barriques (80%new 20% used). Vineyard altitude 350 m to 400 m above sea level. Deep purple in colour. Intense bouquet. Dark berries with cherry notes with sweet spice, toasted coffee and chocolate. Complex. Warm. Elegant and persistent.

Points 95 TW