TONY

WOOD

ITALIAN

WINE

Colli del Trasimeno Wines

A good friend and neighbour asked me over dinner one evening: “You live near to the Lake, why don’t you ever write about the wines produced practically in your back garden?”

My response to this fair question was I didn’t know any of the winemakers or whether they would be in the slightest bit interested in a non Italian speaking, Brit reviewing their wines.

My friend, who is a highly regarded and very successful local businessman going by the name of Cristian Giardini replied: “That’s it! I will take you to a few wineries, belonging to local friends and associates of mine and we shall see what becomes of it!”

A few weeks later from this part arrangement, we met early one morning in Pozzuolo and after coffee, the car sped off in the direction of the lake…

A brief word about this amazing lake: firstly Lake Trasimeno also referred to as just Trasimeno, is in the province of Perugia in Umbria, the verdant region of central Italy, bordering with Tuscany, Le Marche and Lazio. The lake has a surface area of 128 square km (nearly 50 square miles) and is the fourth largest lake in Italy. Only two small streams flow into the lake and none flow out. The water level fluctuates significantly according to the rainfall levels, so generally Trasimeno is shallow, about 5 meters deep, it is rich in fish including pike, carp and tench. It has three islands and is surrounded by medieval hilltop villages and extensive olive groves.


Madrevite

Back to the wine trail, first up was Madrevite, a third generation winery, now in the very capable hands of Nicola Chiucchiurlotto who in 2003 started to restore his grandfather’s old vineyards, some dating back to the 1970’s. "The farm" as Nicola refers to the land is approximately 60 hectares of which 11 hectares are under vine. I asked why Madrevite? Well, it seems a "Madrevite" is an ancient tool used by Umbrian wine producers to fasten the spigot to the barrels full of wine, it symbolises the bond between the past and the modern agronomist practices of today.

Tasting notes



Madrevite

Elve 2020 Trasimeno DOC

Grechetto 100%

Pale straw in colour with greenish undertones. Orchard fruits predominantly pear, honeydew melon, almond, greengage, white and yellow florals. Fresh. Natural depth and texture. Hits the right notes.

Points 89TW


Madrevite

Il Reminone 2020 IGP Bianco

Trebbiano Spoletino 100%

Bright straw yellow in colour. Solid core of yellow fruits, light textured, opens nicely on mid palate, tapers on the back end then fades. Fresh. Clean. Medium to full bodied. Faint hints of shell minerality on close.

Points 88 TW

Madrevite

La Bisbetica 2020 Umbria IGP Rosato

Gamay del Trasimeno 100%

Deep salmon pink in colour with copper undertones. Aromatics of hibiscus, a medley of fruit nuances, wild strawberry, crushed raspberry, star fruit and sour white cherry. Showing youthful tannins and crunchy acidity. A sharp clean line of minerality. Minimum bottle age required. Ready to go.

Points 89 TW



Madrevite

Opra 2021 Trasimeno DOC Gamay del Trasimeno

Gamay del Trasimeno100%

Mid ruby red in colour. A mix of black and red berries, baked plum, sour cherry. Asian spice notes, humus. Fine tannins vie with crunchy acidity. Needs bottle time.

Points 88-90 TW


Madrevite

C’osa 2019 Trasimeno DOC Gamay del Trasimeno Riserva

Gamay del Trasimeno 100%

Pale garnet in colour. Red florals. Red cherry, raspberry, warm strawberry, spice notes. Purity of fruit. Has energy and drive. Still showing residual tannin tension. A year or two in bottle will help with overall balance. Shows great promise.

Points 91 TW


N.B.To clear up any misunderstanding, the word Gamay used in Colli del Trasimeno Wines, is in fact Grenache.


I was kindly given further bottles Titulla, Glanio and Che Syrah Sara these wines I will review in my end of year Orra Wine Review 2022.

Poggio Santa Maria

The next winery was Poggio Santa Maria (of Massimiliano Marchetti): a modern style, recently completed winery and cantina overlooking Lake Chiusi.

Tasting Notes


Poggio Santa Maria

Umbria Chardonnay IGT 2020

Chardonnay 85% Vermentino 15%

Pale straw in colour. Green apple. Yellow florals. Fresh. Crisp. Good balance. Medium bodied. Forward chalky minerality.

Points 88 TW


Poggio Santa Maria

Umbria Rosso IGP 2020

Merlot 40% Sangiovese 40% Cabernet Sauvignon 20%

Deep ruby red in colour. Black cherry, blackcurrant, flabby in texture. Probably due to being served at least 4/5 degrees above its maximum temperature. Not a good showing.

Points 80 TW


Poggio Santa Maria

Montelungo Colli del Trasimeno DOC 2017

Merlot 100%

Deep garnet in colour.Black cherry, blackberry, tobacco, wet leather.

Uneven fruit maturation. Showing overripe fruit and green tannins.

Points 84 TW

Poggio Santa Maria

Montelungo Colli del Trasimeno DOC 2018

Merlot 100%

Ruby red in colour. Red cherry, blackberry, pipe tobacco, leather. Fresh. Rounded texture. Soft curves. Good length on close.

Points 89 TW

Poggio Santa Maria

Tresa Colli del Trasimeno 2018

Merlot. Deep ruby red in colour. Black cherry, wild forest berries, aged leather, liquorice, purple florals, orange peel and dried Mediterranean herbs. Well put together. Hovers on the close.

Points 90 TW


Poggio Bertaio

The Poggio Bertaio winery was born in 1972, when Fabio Ciufoli, father of the current owners moved from Castelli Romani to Castiglione del Lago and purchased the inaugural plot of this estate. Later his two sons each took a role in the family business: Ugo dedicated himself to the management side, while Fabrizio undertook the career of oenolgist, for the family and other wineries.

In 1985 the new cellar was complete and the first bottles of Cimbolo were released.

Today the estate totals 40 hectares of which 20 hectares are under vine. Mainly located at 300 meters above sea level. Nearly all vineyards face due south.


Tasting Notes


Poggio Bertaio

Umbria IGP 2021

Grechetto 100%

Pale straw in colour with greenish highlights.

Fresh, clean and crisp. Showing orchard fruit, yellow and white florals, chalk, grapefruit, honeydew melon. Good balance. Fruity, juicy and linear.

Points 89 TW


Poggio Bertaio

Fiorda Rosato Umbria IGP 2020

Cabernet Sauvignon 100%

Deep salmon with copper undertones in colour. Red fruits, pink rose florals, wild cherry, mulberry. Complex minerality, Medium to full bodied. This will stand up to white meats and well and strong white lake fish. Solid core of packed fruit. Faint liquorice notes on the back end. Long articulated close.

Points 90 TW


Poggio Bertaio

Cimbolo 2016

Sangiovese 100%

Mid ruby red in colour. Red cherry, redcurrant, liquorice, dried Mediterranean herbs, baking spice, lead pencil minerality. Complex texture. Broadens on mid palate. Attractive mouthfeel. Long finish.

Points 93 TW


Poggio Bertaio

Stucchio Umbria IGP 2019

Sangiovese 100%

Mid ruby red in colour. Red cherry, forest berries ,raspberry, blonde pipe tobacco. Fine tannins. Fruit quality of the charts. Faint notes of dark chocolate. Exemplifies house style.

Points 90 TW


Poggio Bertaio

Apo 2006

Sangiovese 60% Merlot 30% Cabernet Sauvignon 10%

Darkest ruby red in colour with black inky undertones.The aromatics are difficult to draw back from. Announces itself with all pomp and ceremony. Totally intoxicating. Complex texture. Black fruits (too many to list), liquorice, blood orange, clove notes. Racy. Juicy. Utterly compelling. The finest red wine that I have tasted in many a long year here in Umbria!

Points 95 TW