A good friend and neighbour asked me over dinner one evening: “You live near to the Lake, why don’t you ever write about the wines produced practically in your back garden?”
My response to this fair question was I didn’t know any of the winemakers or whether they would be in the slightest bit interested in a non Italian speaking, Brit reviewing their wines.
My friend, who is a highly regarded and very successful local businessman going by the name of Cristian Giardini replied: “That’s it! I will take you to a few wineries, belonging to local friends and associates of mine and we shall see what becomes of it!”
A few weeks later from this part arrangement, we met early one morning in Pozzuolo and after coffee, the car sped off in the direction of the lake…
A brief word about this amazing lake: firstly Lake Trasimeno also referred to as just Trasimeno, is in the province of Perugia in Umbria, the verdant region of central Italy, bordering with Tuscany, Le Marche and Lazio. The lake has a surface area of 128 square km (nearly 50 square miles) and is the fourth largest lake in Italy. Only two small streams flow into the lake and none flow out. The water level fluctuates significantly according to the rainfall levels, so generally Trasimeno is shallow, about 5 meters deep, it is rich in fish including pike, carp and tench. It has three islands and is surrounded by medieval hilltop villages and extensive olive groves.
Back to the wine trail, first up was Madrevite, a third generation winery, now in the very capable hands of Nicola Chiucchiurlotto who in 2003 started to restore his grandfather’s old vineyards, some dating back to the 1970’s. "The farm" as Nicola refers to the land is approximately 60 hectares of which 11 hectares are under vine. I asked why Madrevite? Well, it seems a "Madrevite" is an ancient tool used by Umbrian wine producers to fasten the spigot to the barrels full of wine, it symbolises the bond between the past and the modern agronomist practices of today.
Elve 2020 Trasimeno DOC
Pale straw in colour with greenish undertones. Orchard fruits predominantly pear, honeydew melon, almond, greengage, white and yellow florals. Fresh. Natural depth and texture. Hits the right notes.
Il Reminone 2020 IGP Bianco
Trebbiano Spoletino 100%
Bright straw yellow in colour. Solid core of yellow fruits, light textured, opens nicely on mid palate, tapers on the back end then fades. Fresh. Clean. Medium to full bodied. Faint hints of shell minerality on close.
Points 88 TW
La Bisbetica 2020 Umbria IGP Rosato
Gamay del Trasimeno 100%
Deep salmon pink in colour with copper undertones. Aromatics of hibiscus, a medley of fruit nuances, wild strawberry, crushed raspberry, star fruit and sour white cherry. Showing youthful tannins and crunchy acidity. A sharp clean line of minerality. Minimum bottle age required. Ready to go.
Points 89 TW
Opra 2021 Trasimeno DOC Gamay del Trasimeno
Gamay del Trasimeno100%
Mid ruby red in colour. A mix of black and red berries, baked plum, sour cherry. Asian spice notes, humus. Fine tannins vie with crunchy acidity. Needs bottle time.
Points 88-90 TW
C’osa 2019 Trasimeno DOC Gamay del Trasimeno Riserva
Gamay del Trasimeno 100%
Pale garnet in colour. Red florals. Red cherry, raspberry, warm strawberry, spice notes. Purity of fruit. Has energy and drive. Still showing residual tannin tension. A year or two in bottle will help with overall balance. Shows great promise.
Points 91 TW
N.B.To clear up any misunderstanding, the word Gamay used in Colli del Trasimeno Wines, is in fact Grenache.
I was kindly given further bottles Titulla, Glanio and Che Syrah Sara these wines I will review in my end of year Orra Wine Review 2022.