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TONY

WOOD

ITALIAN

WINE

Terre di Toscana 2023

This year, once again, I was pleased to attend the amazing Terre di Toscana wine event organised by L'Acquabuona wine magazine. It was held at the same perfect venue: the Una Esperienze Hotel in Lido di Camaiore, on the Tuscany coast.

Always oversubscribed, this is one of my favourite wine tasting events of the year.


The 2023 edition showcased 130 wineries, including many of the most prestigious names in the Italian wine industry.


Searching out wineries that are new to me and getting to know their winemakers is the real joy for me. Often this leads to some extraordinary finds…


The winemakers seem to be more relaxed at this stage of the year and appear to have time to engage in conversation and description of their products.


The variety of wineries represented is really interesting, rather than a collection from a single consorzio or from only one denomination.

Terre di Toscana is also open to the general public so consumers and trade representatives are able to mingle while tasting and exchange valuable opinions…


Special Older Vintages Tasting Notes:



Canalicchio di Sopra

Brunello di Montalcino Riserva DOCG 2010

Bottled in very special years. Made from old vines planted in 1987. Only the finest grape selection goes forward to the Riserva.

Medium ruby red in colour. Distant aromatics of violet. Dark cherry, blackberry, blueberry, cedar, cigar leaf, roasted meat, dried mushroom. Savoury and earthy. Primary notes continue throughout. Smokey balsamic nuances. Rich. Perfect balance and symmetry. Juicy. Broad. Notes of dried red cherry and pepper coming off the back end. Long finish that pulsates energy. Utterly mind blowing!

Points 99 TW



Castell’in Villa

Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2000

Fading medium ruby red in colour, almost pale. Dark red cherry, plum, blackcurrant, spice,

violet florals, tobacco notes, grilled meat infused with rosemary. Worn leather and white smoke. Persistent. Juicy. Still with plenty of energy. Lingers on the close.

Points 93 TW



Castello Dei Rampolla

D’Alceo IGT 2009

Blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Petit Verdot. Medium ruby red in colour. Blackberry, blackcurrant, dewberry, toasted blonde tobacco. Distant florals of violet and hyacinth. Cool entry.Velvety and rounded. Terrific textural depth. Showing elegance and concentration. Mid palate broad and vibrant. Articulated close.

Points 96 TW



Capezzana

Carmignano Riserva 1981

A blend of Sangiovese 70% Cabernet Sauvignon 15% Canaiolo 10% Occhio di Pernice 5%

From a harvest that had good early rain. Warm summer not too hot, producing excellent ripe fruit.

Pale garnet red in colour. Prune, redcurrant. Distant nuances of menthol infused Mediterranean herbs, dried red cherry in alcohol. Tart citrus peel. Savoury character. Showing pulses of energy from mid palate. Slate minerality. Medium close.

Points: Out of respect for the age of this wine, I do not give a score.



Brancaia

Ilatraia 2005

A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Sangiovese and Petit Verdot.

Intense ruby red in colour. Blackberry, dark plum, blueberry, blackcurrant, blonde tobacco, cedar shavings, old saddle leather, smoke notes, dusting of bitter chocolate powder. Fine tannins. Complex minerality. Agile. Broadens on the mid palate, then tapers slightly to a long linear close.

Points 93 TW



Castello di Ama

Chianti Classico Riserva 2004

Sangiovese 80% Merlot and Cabernet Franc 20%

Medium ruby red in colour. Faint blue floral of violet and bluebell. Dark cherry, boysenberry, balsam, underbrush, mild toasted tobacco, grilled Mediterranean herbs. Secondary nuances of prune and white smoke. Lightly textured.Tapers slightly from mid palate to a medium length finish.

Points 93 TW



Castello di Ama

L’ Apparita Toscana IGT 2008

Merlot 100%

This historic vineyard, renowned for its Merlot, can be found above the Bellavista vineyard, at 500 metres above sea level. Various parcels add up to 3.8 hectares. The vines were originally Malvasia Bianco and Canaiolo, they were re-grafted with Merlot in the mid eighties. Mainly clay soil and open lyre training system complete the picture.


Medium ruby red in colour with violet highlights. Red and black berry fruits, dark Eastern spice, balsam, oak/vanilla notes, liquorice, cigar box and dark chocolate. Secondary nuances of black pepper and juniper berries. Elegant. Poised. Persistent. Loiters on the close.

Points 96 TW



Castello di Monsanto

Il Poggio Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 1970

Medium garnet red in colour with amber undertones. Showing prune, dried fig, bitter citrus peel and humus. Just about holding everything in place. Nuances of past fresh fruit. Good textural definition. Shows balance, but is approaching its last days. Great pleasure to taste.

Points: Out of respect for the age of this wine, I do not give a score.



Fabrizio Dionisio

Il Castagno 2016

Cortona Syrah

Intense and bright ruby red in colour with garnet red undertones. Faint aromatics of violet and hyacinth. Blackberry, dewberry, strawberry with green top, stewed plum, tobacco, full spice tray. Mocha and asphalt. Showing textural depth. Balanced. Agile. Explodes on the mid palate with energy. Broad and juicy in its long, articulated close. A great Syrah from a top producer.

Points 96 TW



Riecine

La Gioia Vino da Tavola di Toscana IGT 1997

Sangiovese 80% Merlot 20%

Medium ruby red in colour. Dark cherry, blackberry, loganberry, leather, remnants of fine tannins and fresh acidity, balanced core structure.Secondary nuances of blackcurrant, fig, spice and cedar wood. Still showing plenty of life. Well put together. Concentrated and a touch below full bodied. Following mid palate there is a textural lift probably due to rapier acidity in the past. Terrific wine, a great pleasure to taste.

Points 95 TW



Rocca delle Macìe

Chianti Classico Riserva 1995

Medium garnet red in colour with amber highlights. Bing cherry, dewberry, blackcurrant. Distant nuances of balsam and bitter citrus peel. Still showing well for its age. Not an easy vintage 1995, so I am very surprised and pleased this wine has held together.

Points: Out of respect for the age of this wine, I do not give a score.



Rocca di Montegrossi

San Marcellino Chianti Classico Gran Selezione 2010


My tasting notes for this wine from November 2018:

Deep ruby red in colour. Fruit quality ‘off the charts’ bouquet of spring flowers, liquorice, spiced orange peel, undertones of complex minerality. Vigorous. Formidable. Complex. Still needs a couple of years in bottle. What a wine! 2021 - 2040

Points 96 TW


Tasting it again 5 years later, this is what we find:

The colour has not changed hardly at all. The bouquet has almost disappeared and yet violet aromas remain. Liquorice, orange peel and spice are still evident on the back end. Now it’s acidity and minerality that drives its energy. Drink 2021- 2040 (I wrote 5 five years ago), not a bad suggestion: dead right in fact! This wine reached its plateau and is totally captivating. It has put on a little weight, and the primary flavours and nuances are mesmerising. As I said 5 years ago…“What a wine!”

Points 98 TW



San Giusto a Rentennano

La Ricolma Toscana IGT 2006

Merlot 100%

Medium ruby red in colour. Faint aromatics of violet florals. Blackberry and balsam. Secondary nuances of blueberry, dark cherry, dried Mediterranean herbs and forest floor, dusting of dark spice. Finely sculpted body. Rounded texture and silky tannins. Long, agile and juicy finish. Has plenty of time to go, at least 7- 10 years.

Points 96 TW



Tenuta di Trinoro

Rosso Toscana IGT 2013

Cabernet Franc 50% Merlot 33% Cabernet Sauvignon 13% Petit Verdot 4%

Blackberry, blackcurrant, dried dark cherry, leather, mild dark spice. Dusty tannins. Difficult vintage, very cool summer, the plants’ natural growing effort ripened the grapes…eventually. Not the Sun! I recall tasting this wine on release and it was very inward looking, not giving out anything. Incredible structure and depth. Today it has cast off its cloak of mystery and is showing poise, elegance and balance. The acidity is still forward even ten years on, but now brings a freshness that is unique in the style of this revered wine. Testimony to the winemaking skill of the late Andrea Franchetti.

Points 96 TW



Colognole

Riserva del Don Chianti Rufina Riserva DOCG 2009

Intense ruby red in colour. Aromatics of violet and hyacinth. Dark cherry, dewberry, cranberry, blackberry, tree bark notes, balsam nuances. Fine tannins vie with zesty acidity, leather. Savoury and earthy. Blonde tobacco. Lightly textured. Slight drying of the palate on the back end. Has obviously benefited from bottle age. Medium finish.

Points 90 TW



Villa Calcinaia

Conti Capponi

Chianti Classico Riserva 2009

Medium ruby red in colour. Dark cherry, blackberry, boysenberry, tobacco, menthol infused Mediterranean herbs, leather, earthy and savoury. Persistent. Great depth. Medium bodied. Rich and elegant. Well balanced with a broad finish.

Points 93 TW



My sincere thanks to Luca Bonci, Riccardo Farchioni and the committee of L'AcquaBuona enology magazine for their continued support and hospitality. Once again they organised a brilliant event at the Una Esperienze Hotel in Lido di Camaiore, Viareggio.




© Tony Wood Italian Wine 2023






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